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| Vogue's demanding Editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, |
The closest most of us will ever get to high fashion is to walk through the upscale end of Nordstrom’s or Saks Fifth Avenue. Many of us wouldn’t recognize an haute couture designer if he or she camped out on our porch. Rodarte. Proenza Schouler. Anna Sui. Who the heck are they? Fall and Spring collections, bridge lines, Fashion Week, CFDA Awards – these may be as alien to us as Scotch haggis. That is, of course, unless we tune in to such reality television shows as America’s Top Model, or watch movies like The Devil Wears Prada.
Which is why the new documentary, September Issue, is so fascinating. BORRRING may be the word that comes to mind when we hear the word “documentary.” But not this one. Director R. J. Cutler provides an 88-minute journey so compelling that it will make your Levi’s stand by themselves and pay attention. This film is about the creation of a single, very fat issue of American Vogue – the September, 2007 issue – and it says a bit about fashion, but a lot about the real ins and outs of fashion publishing. The focus is on the inner workings of the magazine and its notoriously demanding Editor-in-chief, Anna Wintour, known as The Ice Queen in some circles.
The movie opens with Ms. Wintour’s statement that “there is something about fashion that can make people very nervous.” Ms. Wintour is dead on. She makes everyone around her nervous. One look from this woman is enough to make her employees jump. She never raises her voice; the look is enough. (The Devil Wears Prada's Meryl Streep plays a character supposedly based on Ms. Wintour and is a pussycat compared to this true-life boss.) That being said, it is an absolute thrill to watch all the characters – the real employees of the magazine – carry out her vision, pouring their passion and devotion into the development of this one issue.
Framing the story around the creation of the September Issue gives the movie a natural beginning, middle and end. The most fascinating characters are involved in this multi-million-dollar enterprise. One of the most compelling is the Birkenstock-wearing, midriff-bulging, frizzy-haired genius behind the most captivating layouts in any issue of Vogue, Grace Coddington. An incomparable creative director and styling genius, she is the one person who can stand up to Ms. Wintour, and she has done so over a 20-year career at the magazine. Complete opposites in personal style, they are perfectly matched in this age-old conflict between creative artist and critical manager.
September Issue won the 2009 Sundance Film Festival Award, and it is easy to see why. The film is a probing peek into the privileged and highly competitive world of fashion and business. Take your daughters, ladies, and go see it. It is an education in the business of fashion, and it reveals the truth behind the glamour. You’ll be entranced.
Directed by R. J. Cutler, the director of photography was Bob Richman. The film was edited by Azin Samari, with music by Craig Richey. It was produced by Mr. Cutler, Eliza Hindmarch and Sadia Shepard and released by Roadside Attractions. Running time: 1 hour 28 minutes
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